It's going to take a fair amount of rods Ed. They have to be overlapping, not end to end. I had my overlap ratio at 50 %. All my rods made a stick 21" long. Thicker in the center and tapered at the ends. One large caveat. The stick is fragile. I broke mine a few times and had to carefully super glue it back together. I used superglue initially and then used hot glue to re-enforce it at all the places that the rods ran along side each other.The primary coil to be tuned to resonance was a length of zip cord wound over the entire stick, not closewound... 40 turns... some space between turns. That coil was connected bifilar to produce, in my case, approx. 418 uh. Remember, ordinary rods are not made for lf, so it takes more turns to get more uh. The winding needed approx. 3.3 nf for resonance at 2200m. I have a 300pf variable cap in parallel with the fixed mica cap to maintain resonance with changing outdoor temperature.
The pickup winding is also wound over the entire stick but with fewer turns... maybe a third as much as the primary. Not wound bifilar either. I wound a layer of electrical tape over the entire stick for more strength and placed it in the tube with all coil connections into a pvc electrical box.
I don't have an analyzer to make things easy, so I had to figure things out the hard way for max signal transfer. Things fell into place when I used my sdr's visible spectrum as a receiver to see what changes needed to be made. Resonance finally became a well defined peak out of the noise level when viewed on the screen at 2200m. I had needed capacitance in series with the pickup coil. I carefully adjusted the amount of series capacitance, watching the rx peak and found that approx. 2.5 nf worked to maximize/peak the signal carrier (that I was generating from across the home) out of the noise level. I must have everything right in the way of impedance matching because when different lengths of coax are connected, the resonant point of the stick doesn't change, as it did previously.
Ray